Sachi, Hawthorn

Reki Reinantha was one of the sushi masters who helped make the Kisume chef’s table a two-hatted dining experience, with a truly mesmerising level of focus and finesse.

Late last year, he left the Flinders Lane restaurant to focus on Sachi, a more low-key, seafood-centric spot of his own dedicated to sushi and chirashi-don ‒ expertly constructed bowls of sashimi atop vinegar-cured sushi rice, with seasonal sides.

Despite his fine-dining roots, “I’ve always been fascinated more by casual eateries than expensive omakase,” Reinantha says. “People think ‘casual’ means the ingredients are cheaper or lower-quality, but that’s not the case [here].”

The team is slicing up “crazy good” Australian bluefin tuna and ocean trout, sourcing scallops and uni (sea urchin) from Hokkaido in Japan, and dry-aging fish in-house to remove moisture and ramp up flavour.

There’s also an omakase option that includes up to 10 pieces of sushi, dessert and more for $150, making it “less bougie” than some of the fancier experiences around town.

Sachi is currently popping up in a former ramen bar on Burwood Road in Hawthorn, but Reinantha plans to open a permanent space in the CBD at the end of the year.

Open Wed-Thu 5pm-9pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-10pm; Sun 5pm-9pm

64 Burwood Road, Hawthorn, sachidon.univer.se

Elka, Footscray

The art of dry-aging takes centre stage at another new sushi spot, Elka, in Footscray. Behind an all-glass frontage on Leeds Street, huge fish of all sorts hang on full display.

Owners Ken Tran and his daughter Elisha Tran are part of the family behind Footscray’s longstanding D&K Live Seafood market, located, quite conveniently, across the road.

At the coral- and cream-hued Elka, everything is made to order using the freshest fish the Trans can get their hands on. The seasonal selection of dry-aged sashimi is served as is, in nigiri form, or crowning vibrant chirashi bowls with a spattering of salmon roe.

The offering also includes temaki packs that let you create your own hand rolls, and ready-to-eat maki rolls filled with premium produce such as wagyu and bluefin tuna belly.

Elka is lunchtime-only and geared towards takeaway, but there are a few tables.

Open Wed-Mon 11am-4pm

7-9 Leeds Street, Footscray, instagram.com/elka.sushi

Muli Express, CBD

Muli, Carlton’s “esoteric” seafood restaurant, has spawned a fast-casual CBD sibling. Muli Express is an 18-square-metre oyster bar in the middle of Chinatown, where it’s been capturing the attention of locals and passing tourists.

Another recently opened offshoot of the D&K Live Seafood family, it’s run by David Tran, brother of the above-mentioned Ken Tran, alongside David’s wife, Van Tran, and their son, who’s also called David Tran.

“We want to celebrate Australian oysters, support our farmers and educate people,” says Van. But they’re not afraid to have a little fun, too.

“If you look at our Instagram, we don’t really show oysters,” says Van. “We just show people’s [smiling] faces. It’s a dose of happiness … And we don’t even serve alcohol!”

The blue-and-white eatery deals in shucked-to-order oysters from all over the country: Coffin Bay, Merimbula and beyond. Each has its own quirky moniker, such as those from Tassie’s Duck Bay, dubbed “Big Boy”. “They’re like three oysters in one,” says Van.

Up to 20 different varieties are available at any one time and they’re all stored in temperature-controlled tanks, Van says, “to retain their fullness and plumpness”.

Aside from molluscs, you’ll also find Muli’s lobster roll and, as winter sets in, congee.

Open Mon-Tue noon-9pm; Wed-Sun noon-4pm

163 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne, instagram.com/muli_express