And while it’s an effort to reach the far-flung paradise that’s closer to Indonesia than mainland Australia, within moments of arriving, I know I’m in for something special.

The gorgeous necklace-shaped archipelago encompasses 27 low-lying islets, many shrouded with coconut palms and skirted by white sands and brochure-blue waters, Escape reports.

Below sea level is just as brilliant: the coral atolls’ unifying lagoon is a colourful universe with more than 500 fish species animating pristine reefs. Just under 600 people call the Cocos home and only two islands – West and Home – are populated. Each has its own way of coastal living, making the Cocos a beguiling place to explore and tap out. (No phone reception helps.)

I feel privileged to be here. Cocos can accommodate only 144 tourists, which makes this island escape even more extraordinary.

DAY ONE: Midday

I arrive at the Cocos (Keeling) Islands Airport on West Island and pick up my hire ute from outside the terminal. Keys are encouraged to be left in the vehicle (arranging a spare key from the mainland would be a saga).

It’s a short drive to Cocos Cottages, 600m away. The simple self-contained chalets border the airstrip, which also doubles as the world’s only golf course on an international runaway. From my balcony, I’m engrossed watching the last link to civilisation – the Virgin Australia plane I had disembarked – make its roaring ascension to Christmas Island, 980km east. How’s that for front-row entertainment?

Afternoon

It’s time to cool off and discover Cocos at my own pace. No boating licence is required to hire a dinghy from Cocosday and be at the helm of my seafaring adventure. I voyage to the tiny undeveloped island, Pulu Blan, for a gourmet Cocos Picnics feast under swaying palms. Beach, bites and bubbles – I could get used to these outings.

DAY TWO: Morning

There’s no better way to understand a place than by throwing yourself in the deep end, and this lesson includes a dive mask. I join instructor Dieter Gerhard of Cocos Dive to scuba-dive in the heart of the archipelago, the lagoon. It forms part of Cocos (Keeling) Islands Marine Park, one of the world’s largest marine sanctuaries.

Under the lagoon’s blue marble-effect waters are thriving reefs with hard and soft corals, considered habitats of international significance. We visit Cabbage Patch, a dive site famed for its vast coral garden that resembles the leafy green. Reef sharks and green turtles pop out of the garden’s curious nooks, and I am transfixed by their smooth movements over the plunging reef wall.

Midday

We feast on a picnic between dives on Direction Island, the locals’ favourite playground. The island has minimal facilities – an eco-toilet, wood-fired barbecues, walking trails and shaded picnic tables – which gives it a feel. Residents make the $5 return ferry trip here for their slice of paradise in their free time, swimming at Cossies Beach – once voted the best beach in Australia.

I venture to the island’s tip to complete the drift snorkel dubbed “The Rip”. The current passes over an underwater ridge with abundant sea life. As the rip can go fast, only confident swimmers should attempt this natural joy ride.

Afternoon

I continue familiarising myself with Cocos’ finned residents, spotting black diamonds in crystal-clear waters. It’s apparently mating season as 12 manta rays hover over the ocean bed. Their formation appears like pageantry, with the female in the lead and the males behind. Wanting to make the most out of this rare event, we grab our snorkels to observe the ocean’s gentle giants below, the rays nonchalant about our intrusion on their slow-moving courtship.

Evening

Tropika is a casual dining restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating, serving halal-certified Cocos Malay dishes. It’s considered a cheap meal on the island – a generous serving of beef rendang and coconut rice was priced at $20.

To wash it all down, I head across the road and join in the merriment at Cocos Club. The island’s only pub sells duty-free alcohol; just don’t expect a rowdy party vibe because of bargain-priced booze. The laid-back bar is a place to interact with locals as they unwind after a big day – most likely participating in all kinds of adventuresome activities on land or sea.

DAY THREE: Morning

I grab a freshly baked treat from Salty’s Grill & Bakery and drive to Wild Coconut Discovery Centre. The hard hat is on as I walk around a coconut plantation with farmer Tony Lacy to appreciate the island’s industrial history.

The education continues as I catch a 30-minute ferry to Home Island for a cultural tour. Led by local guide Ossie, the tour offers insight into the Cocos Malay culture with a beachside home-cooked lunch, buggy rides around the quiet village, coconut husking, and basket-weaving demonstrations.

Evening

For a sundowner, I head to Surfer Girl Restaurant & Brewery, sitting outside under festoon lights to watch the waves roll in as the sun begins to set. Tonight is pasta night, and I go for the seafood girasoli – the bowl of creamy carbs does not disappoint.

DAY FOUR: Morning

It’s time for “Tour de Cocos”, roaming the West Island on two wheels. Phat Tours Cocos offers guided e-bike tours, venturing off-road to visit secluded beaches and towering coconut plantations. We stop to recharge at The Big Barge Art Centre, a multipurpose venue in a brightly restored boat. I order an iced coffee, sit on a swinging chair, and sway over the sandy shoreline.

How to get to the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Virgin Australia operates two flights weekly – Tuesday and Friday – from Perth to Cocos (Keeling) Islands Airport via Exmouth (refuel stop). It is possible to combine a Cocos (Keeling) Islands holiday with a stop at Christmas Island, making it the perfect opportunity to explore both territories.

The writer was a guest of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands Tourism Association.

This article originally appeared on Escape and was reproduced with permission